Gainesbuildering: Gainesville Buildering
Aid: My middle name is Wayne...
Gear
For Toproping
- 3-5 carabiners (anchor)
- 2-3 shoulder length slings (anchor)
- ATC belay device and harness with locking carabiner (even two biners and a sling will do)
- 40m+ climbing rope (>8.5mm)
- climbing shoes (snug fit for cracks)
- figure 8 repelling device (optional for anchor)
- tape for making a simple hand glove or a more complex one (to not rip your wrists apart the first time)
Leading, setting passive/active aid
- #3 Friend ( possibly +/- a size up or down)
- #8 Hexcentric ( possibly +/- a size up or down)
Anchor
As far as an anchor goes, at the top of the parking garage there are two light poles directly over two of the cracks that work as excellent anchor points. I used two separate slings binered off to a figure 8 repelling device over the side. If the crack is not underneath one of the light poles, as with this specific route, there is a water pipe with two steel straps bolted to the concrete on the opposite side of the guard wall at the top. I connected a separate sling to each one that binered off to the figure 8 again. For both anchor methods, you can belay from the top or from the bottom.
Aid
The only aid gear I had that would fit in the crack was a #3 Friend (cam) and a #8 Hexcentric. It may be possible to use aid a size or two bigger/smaller, but with my limited rack, I wasn't able to find out. The cracks here are pretty much the same width throughout, so there's not much variation to use other sizes...
For Toproping
- 3-5 carabiners (anchor)
- 2-3 shoulder length slings (anchor)
- ATC belay device and harness with locking carabiner (even two biners and a sling will do)
- 40m+ climbing rope (>8.5mm)
- climbing shoes (snug fit for cracks)
- figure 8 repelling device (optional for anchor)
- tape for making a simple hand glove or a more complex one (to not rip your wrists apart the first time)
Leading, setting passive/active aid
- #3 Friend ( possibly +/- a size up or down)
- #8 Hexcentric ( possibly +/- a size up or down)
Anchor
As far as an anchor goes, at the top of the parking garage there are two light poles directly over two of the cracks that work as excellent anchor points. I used two separate slings binered off to a figure 8 repelling device over the side. If the crack is not underneath one of the light poles, as with this specific route, there is a water pipe with two steel straps bolted to the concrete on the opposite side of the guard wall at the top. I connected a separate sling to each one that binered off to the figure 8 again. For both anchor methods, you can belay from the top or from the bottom.
Aid
The only aid gear I had that would fit in the crack was a #3 Friend (cam) and a #8 Hexcentric. It may be possible to use aid a size or two bigger/smaller, but with my limited rack, I wasn't able to find out. The cracks here are pretty much the same width throughout, so there's not much variation to use other sizes...
#3 Friend
#3 Friend
#8 Hexcentric
#8 Hexcentric
